Big Bend Day 3
I packed as much as possible into my final day hiking in Big Bend. The day started off promising with clear skies (and freezing temperatures) at camp.
My first objective was Emory Peak, the highest point in the Chisos (7,825 ft). I started up the Pinnacles Trail, and when I reached the ridgeline I got my first real treat of the day. Although the view of the desert was obscured by fog, all points in the distance above around 5,000 ft peeked out above it.
I enjoyed these conditions all the way to the final little class 3 scramble up to the top of Emory, which provided a massive view in all directions. Shows how much research I’d done going into this hike: I had no idea I’d have to use my hands on this one. Whoops!
And as epic as this vantage point was, I was also clueless as to how much better the views would get.
After summiting Emory Peak, I continued my hike up Boot Canyon. As I approached the spring and camping area, the vegetation changed accordingly, and the north-facing ravine became increasingly filled with fall color. The temperature seemed to drop considerably as well, a welcome change after being exposed to the bright sun for quite some time.
At this point I was already astounded by the variety, 9 miles into this hike. I had a feeling it would continue to blow my mind, so I didn’t pause except to snap a few quick shots.
After leaving the colorful Boot Spring area, I reached a pass and walked for about a mile alongside another creek. The trail was overgrown with tall grasses, and for the next 15-20 minutes, I was on high snake alert. Man, have I been fortunate on that front considering all my recent desert hikes.
Then, before I knew it, I was standing on the precipice of the south rim of the upper Rio Grande Valley overlooking completely clear skies and mindblowing landscapes as much as 5000 ft below. The cliffs I was walking along dropped off about 2000 ft to the next level. I’d walk along this rim for a mile or so, one panoramic view after another. I really didn’t want to leave this area of the hike, and I was happy to find a less traveled trail back out to the rim after the main trail had made its bend back northward.
I'd then turn back toward the basin campground for a 5-ish mile hike back in, for around 16 miles total for the hike, clocking in right at 6 hours, including all stops and diversions. Perfect day.
After returning to camp and breaking down my tent, I decided that before I left the park, I should probably get down to the river. The famous Santa Elena canyon was a little far and in the opposite direction I needed to go. So, I headed east to Boquillas Canyon, which I knew nothing about other than it was a 1.5-mile round trip hike to the river.
The drive down was stunning as I was headed straight for the Mexican cliffs I’d been looking at most of the day. And when I got there, I saw the most extraordinary things, both in terms of wildlife and geology. The calm pace of the Rio Grande and the increasingly mellow light of the sunset made for a cathartic walk after the intense pace I’d kept earlier in the big hike. It was perfect and felt significant. Even though I had to be back in Austin for a rehearsal the next evening, there was no rush. These moments are the ones to make time for.
I’d keep this mindset as I made my way out of the park. I stopped to chat with a young family from New Zealand who were biking back to Rio Grande Village. And I must have pulled over ten times trying to get the perfect sunset shot. Despite my late exit from the park, I still managed to make it to Fort Stockton in time to house some Dairy Queen steak fingers. And a coke. AND THE BEST BLIZZARD I’VE EVER HAD.
Also, I'd say my new Brooks Cascadias passed their trial run with flying colors. 28 miles their first two days of service!
