Zion Day 1: Angels’ Landing
Disclaimer: this post is a lot more about me than it is about the hike. Thankfully, this one is a bonafide *classic*, so if you’re in search of a true report, you’ll find thousands out there.
I’ve been hungry to come back to Zion Canyon pretty much since the instant I left four years ago. That was the first significant national park trip of my adult life. I found a week in my hectic teaching schedule and met my folks there. They were in the midst of their first big foray into the Southwest in their new RV. I needed a break, big time. I was very stressed out by my life at the time, both professional and personal. I had spent the better part of a year responding to a devastating event by folding in on myself, at the expense of my self-confidence and my health.
I do believe with every fragment of my being that that trip changed the course of my life drastically and permanently. Zion mesmerized me. The sheer verticality of the place was both astonishing and absolutely terrifying. I had obsessed about Angels’ Landing in particular leading up to the trip, watching a bunch of YouTube videos and reading trip reports. I really wanted to do it.
But when we reached Scout’s Lookout that day, I walked to the edge of the 1000-ft. precipice and was paralyzed by fear and doubt. I was immediately certain I couldn’t possibly do it. We opted to hike the West Rim trail instead, and, while that was magical, my visceral response to that first glimpse loomed heavy. I had grown sick of the excuses I’d used for so long: “Well, I’m afraid of heights.” “I’ll never be able to run because of my knees.” “I’m an artist, not an athlete”...
So I made some changes. I hiked up the highest mountain in Colorado a few months later. At the time, it was the hardest thing I’d ever willed myself through. I started going to the little gym at my apartment complex a few times a week. I even started trying to run a bit, first on the treadmill and then out on some local trails. Even these little things radiated throughout my life in a profound way that influenced me to keep working harder. Not out of shame and guilt, but from a place of peace and contentment.
Since then, I’ve climbed thirty more 14ers, grown to get really restless when I miss more than one workout day, and often run as much as twenty miles a week. A lot of miraculous things have happened professionally, as well, but I won’t get into that. I have no doubt that it’s all related, though.
So here we are, back at the Grotto shuttle stop at Zion. Mom and I refreshed our agreement that we wouldn’t hike together on this one. We’d see each other at the top. My goal was to focus entirely on hauling ass up the initial hike to Scout’s, then launch straight into the ridge hike without pausing at all there. The light was not great at 9am, so there wasn’t much temptation to take pictures. As I started up the chained section, I felt compelled to avoid allowing my gaze to stray from the path. But after five minutes or so with the blinders on, I realized I could look out into the vast openness with no fear. Seriously. This was one of the most joyous realizations I’ve ever had.
I continued to push hard up the spiny ridgeline, but I was ceaselessly elated by how at home I felt. The legendary “Step of Faith” flew by. To the right: 800 ft. down; to the left: 1200 ft. Simply extraordinary! Because of our early start time, I didn’t have to deal with any bottlenecks on the way up. I reached the top after 50 minutes of hiking. It was pretty much the perfect morning so far.
I had plenty of time up top to enjoy the 360-degree view of the canyon. I spent a decent amount of that time amused by the numerous chipmunks that call this narrow slice of sandstone home. Mom arrived within an hour, and giddiness ensued. We stayed up top for quite a while taking pictures. We even got to see a marriage proposal on the summit. Such unbeatable vibes!
The hike back down was markedly different than my trip up. It was approaching mid-day, and traffic both directions was significantly heavier. At one of the first narrow and steep points on the way down, we caught up with a group held back by a slow hiker up front. While it’s important to communicate with oncoming hikers in these situations, it’s also very easy to be too deferential. You can be an assertive hiker without being a jerk! I took a quicker route around one obstacle to ease traffic behind and free myself up to take some pictures. Mom kept hiking in the group while I went ahead a bit. I hung around the Step of Faith for a while and then re-crossed it with her. We stopped on a wide landing to take in the views and wait for some better hiking space. These crowded conditions made me long for the less-frequented 14ers and 13ers on my list this summer!
Then all too quickly, we were back at Scout’s Lookout, headed back down the wiggles toward Refrigerator Canyon and the Virgin River far below. We had a lunch date with Dad at the lodge, and once we reached the bottom, we decided to walk back along the river rather than take the shuttle. The short trail along the lush, cottonwood-filled canyon floor was absolutely gorgeous.
After a quick lunch recounting our hike to Dad (I probably drank four Cokes...), Mom and I headed back up the canyon to check out another hike listed as “not for those afraid of heights.” We had avoided Hidden Canyon four years ago, as well, due to the description of a narrow cliffside trail with steep dropoffs. But since we were utterly stoked from our morning’s work, and it’s a short 3-mile out-and-back, it seemed like the perfect hike for this afternoon’s pristine weather.
As we headed up the East Rim Trail, we were treated to a fantastic view back toward Angels’ Landing. After climbing nearly 900 ft, the trail splits to the right around a bend in the canyon and quickly becomes quite narrow with fantastic exposure. From here the views up toward Echo Canyon and Observation Point are breathtaking. This is one of those trails that you can’t help thinking about the people that actually built it: their skill, attention to aesthetic detail, and awe-inspiring bravery.
Once we reached Hidden Canyon proper, the maintained trail ended and we continued up the drainage. There are a number of fun obstacles to scramble over along the way and we eventually reached a little free-standing arch. Here, a very imposing obstacle blocks further ascent, and a sign instructs hikers to turn around. We had taken in so much at that point that we were more than happy to start our hike back and call it a day. I could almost taste the super foamy Cutthroat Pale Ale and pork ribs back down at Oscar’s in Springdale. Not a bad first day in Zion.
The stats
Angels‘ Landing:
Length: 5.4 miles
Gain: 1488 ft.
Hidden Canyon:
Length: 3.3 miles
Gain: 931 ft.