Zion Day 2: East Rim Marathon

Yesterday’s hikes energized me so much that all I could think about was continuing to ride that exhilarating wave! My body was feeling strong, and I just wanted to be outside as much as I could and make the most of my time in this inspiring place.

I’d been looking at the trails extending farther from the central Zion Canyon area for a while and was particularly interested in the system of trails on the East Rim. We had gotten into a little of that on our Observation Point hike four years ago, and I was very interested in exploring more of it. The trails out to Deertrap and Cable Mountains were intriguing, but it was a lot of ground to cover and doing them separately would require miles of repetition. I had toyed with the idea of backpacking in from the east entrance of the park and spending the night to extend my range, but I moved into a new house very recently and didn’t really have time to sort out my camping gear to deal with the flight out. Hmmm...

So I picked the route I was into and just started adding up the numbers. It ended up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 26 miles, but not a great deal of elevation gain. I’d hiked 20 miles last summer at significant elevation without too much trouble, so why not give it a go?! I talked Mom into dropping me off early at the east entrance and picking me up at the main visitors’ center in the afternoon, allowing me to through-hike and see as much as possible. 

Needless to say, it was a very early morning. I wanted to be well on my way by the time the sun came up to minimize mid-day heat and exposure up on the flat and somewhat shade-less mesa, where I’d be putting in most of my miles. I was at the trailhead and hiking by 6:30. To save weight, I didn’t pack an outer layer, and it was mighty cold in Jolley Gulch for the first 3+ miles of the hike. The trail started out quite sandy, as well, and I really hoped it wouldn’t persist and screw up my pace. The sunrise was quite the treat, though, and my first grand vista back toward the East Temple hinted at a legendary day of hiking.

As I gradually worked my way up the near 1000-ft. net gain to the mesa, the trail solidified, and I was surprised at the number of extremely tall evergreens I came across. The variety of vegetation in this desert is truly miraculous. I wasn’t too surprised, however, that I was by myself on the trail. In fact, I was nearly six miles in before I came across another person. A few campers were just starting to wake up around Stave Spring, and I was glad to know I wasn’t utterly alone.

My legs were feeling nice and warmed up as I turned left to begin the nearly 4-mile stint over to Deertrap Mountain and its canyon overlook beyond. The trail was pretty flat, and I was aiming to make up time lost on the sand. A thin layer of clouds in the east saved me from the early sun. When I reached the mountain’s characteristic red and green summit, I was surprised the trail led right over the top, breaking up the monotony. When I descended a bit down to the rim, I was so floored by the view that I stopped right there for an extended gaze and a snack, at first not realizing that the trail continued along the rim for nearly half a mile. The views along this section of trail are superb, culminating in a north-facing vista of Angels’ Landing and the Great White Throne.

As I headed back up to the mesa, I began to realize that the little changes in elevation that I hadn’t calculated in my total gain estimate were going to have a significant impact on my experience. I was nearing the double-digit mark in mileage, and I was feeling the climbs. Back out on the flatlands, though, I was practically jogging. I turned off to the left to begin the nearly 2-mile spur out to Cable Mountain, very excited to get another new look at the canyon below. When I reached the edge, I added up the numbers and was excited to discover that I was 14 miles in, past my halfway mark, and over the majority of my climbing for the day.

The view from Cable is comparable to Deertrap. Although there’s no lengthy rim walk, it’s virtually right above Angels’ Landing, close enough to barely see hikers up top.  It’s also a treat to see the remnants of an old machine used to lower lumber down into the canyon by, you guessed it, cables! Perhaps what I was happiest to see were the little zigzags in the cliff marking the trail to Observation Point. I really wanted the hike up to that promontory to be my victory lap today, and having it in my sights made me confident I could pull it off. After a leisurely snack break, I started off again, thrilled to begin my descent into the canyon.

As I approached the junction back at the East Rim Trail proper, I met a group of young hikers, the first people I’d seen in nearly four hours. I chuckled when one of them asked, “Which one did you do, Deertrap or Cable?” They were unsure which they were going to hike, and I was able to give them some info on each. Super nice kids. As I continued on the mesa, I saw in the distance some high red rocks in the mountains to the north. Cedar Breaks! Last time I saw them it was from above after trudging through thigh-deep snow during a blizzard. Also in April! Have I mentioned that this place is totally bonkers?!

The terrain changed drastically as I began to descend. Before I knew it, I was back to full-on canyon hiking, and the trail was perfect. Rough and rocky, with views that were getting better and better. I was entering Echo Canyon. As the hiking became more difficult, I started to really feel the miles I’d put in. The sun was also at its peak, and I’d lost my friendly clouds from earlier in the morning. Even though I was descending, every drainage I crossed on the slickrock was followed by a steep incline, and I was feeling less and less graceful. But I could see the Observation Point trail making its way up the cliffs in front of me, and when I finally reached that junction, after 21 miles of hiking, all that mattered was pushing hard up the damn thing.

I only recall stopping to rest once on the very steep switchbacks, but my legs were straight-up toast when I reached the top. I gained some new respect for the dude that did this section four years ago, around 50 pounds heavier and very apprehensive about the exposure. I still managed to keep up a good pace on the final flat section heading out to the Point, but once I reached it I immediately sat down on the edge and enjoyed the view for a nice, long time. I could see the Cable overlook and Deertrap beyond that, and of course Angels’ Landing right below me. This hike had already done just what I hoped it would: I had a whole new perspective on this place that is so dear to me.

My time up top was wonderful. I chatted with a few hikers about Angels’ Landing, urging them to go for it. I witnessed several others reaching the edge for the first time and taking in that view. Their awed reactions made me so happy, imagining that this place might impact them like it has me. As I looked down to the canyon floor, one thought began to overtake all others: I gotta get down there so I can stick my legs in that cold-ass river!

As soon as I started down the steep incline, I could tell the last four miles weren’t going to be easy. As I mentioned earlier, all the little ups and downs had taken a toll on my legs, and my tendons and ligaments were starting to strain. My only error today was failing to bring my trekking poles, as they would have saved my knees on the big descents. I had been arrogant, and I was going to regret it. I started having to modify my gait to avoid the little jolts of pain below my right kneecap. 

I was very thankful when the trail leveled out to pass through the marvel that is Echo Canyon. The high, narrow walls also provide a natural air-conditioner, and I’d been in the sun a very long time. I walked only as fast as I comfortably could, stopping to take pictures of the beautiful slot canyons. The final familiar switchbacks down to Weeping Rock were a blur, as I could only think of how good that water was going to feel on my abused legs. I bypassed the shuttle stop and restrooms, slapped myself on the legs a few times for surviving this insane undertaking, and bee-lined for the beautiful Virgin River.

I only sat on the shore for around 15 minutes, but after moving almost continuously for the past eleven hours it felt like an eternity. Getting up and putting my shoes back on was very difficult, and my limp was even worse after sitting on the shuttle for half an hour. Mom and Dad were both waiting for me at the visitors’ center, and I proudly brandished my Apple Health mileage count when I saw them. Who knows what will happen with my knee, but this was truly a record-breaking day!

The stats

Distance (map-based): 26.8 miles

Gain (Apple Health-based): 2750 ft. 

My longest single-day hike ever!